Monthly Archives: June 2016

Garden Design and Landscape Design Services

download-2A beautifully designed and landscaped garden is the pride of any home owner. Achieving this may present a challenge to first time gardeners or hobbyists who may or may not have the skills, the tools or the time. This is where Fox Mowing can step in. Fox Mowing AUS is a group of people who are passionate about lawn care and gardening providing innovative garden design and landscape design services in Australia.

Your garden and landscape design must reflect your interests and needs, it should also be practical and useful. The experienced and qualified team at Fox Mowing consults with you to understand your requirements and comes up with innovative garden design and landscape designs that are not only practical but also pleasing to the eye.

A good garden design combines themes, colours and design features in an innovative manner resulting in a friendly and warm setting to your outdoor areas. Neatly growing plants organised in straight lines are the main focus in a contemporary garden. On the other hand, modern gardens that must complement the minimalist structure of the modern day buildings creates an impression of starkness and rigidity.

Apart from creating a great outdoor environment, residential gardens are meant to be a space for relaxing, entertaining and a play area for children. As such, your garden landscape design must not be too formal – a natural planting style gives a sense of liveliness and warmth which is what the talented team at Fox Mowing tries to achieve with its landscape design.

Planting perennials is a great way to brighten up the landscape. The colourful flowers lend a warm touch to the garden. You can have an innovative garden design that combines ornamental grasses with perennial flowering shrubs bordering a lawn to create an attractive outdoor space. A well-kept lawn adds to the effect of lush greenery, but maintaining it is a chore. If you need help with lawn mowing and garden care, Fox Mowing also offers these Mowing Businesses For Sale.

Planters with lush and healthy plants can be moved around to break the monotony. Garden furnishings and seating is an integral part and defining feature in your landscape. Retaining walls built with stones not only hold the soil in the garden but can also function as additional seating. Lighting fixtures blended seamlessly with the surrounding garden landscape provide a beautiful night ambience. All these features and more can be combined to create an innovative garden and landscape design.

Depending on what you would like your garden to be, Lawn Mowing Businesses for Sale by Fox Mowing AUS design a functional and practical garden for you. Get more ideas, check out the rates, and improve your gardening knowledge at http://foxmowing.com.au/. You may want to hire landscape design services from Fox Mowing to renovate your yard or create a beautiful garden space.

Tips for Growing the Perfect Roses

dcDon’t shy away from roses because they’re supposedly finicky and hard to grow. While those gorgeous single roses at the end of a long stem usually do take care and experience to grow to perfection, many other types are as easy to grow as a basic shrub.

Take a look at types known as shrub, landscape or groundcover roses, which grow on multi-stemmed bushes and produce lots of smaller but colorful flowers over a long period – sometimes all summer into fall. Most of these grow well with minimal care and time.

Roses labeled as “antique,” Old English or David Austin are among others that grow easily with larger flowers and can be quite fragrant. Thanks to improvements in breeding, even many new varieties of the more elegant hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda types perform better with less disease and “babying” than older varieties.

Site: All roses do best in full-sun locations – at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sun a day. They also prefer loose, rich and well drained soil – not hard-packed clay or soggy spots. Work a bucket full of compost into the loosened soil around each plant if your soil isn’t good. Soak the ground well after planting, and keep the soil consistently damp the whole first season to help those young roots grow. After that, shrub/landscape/groundcover types often do well with no care other than occasional pruning to control the plants’ size.

Water: To milk the most out of them, though – or if you want to give other types a try – figure on soaking the ground once or twice a week when the weather is hot and dry. Although roses are fairly drought-tough plants, they grow and bloom best in moist but never-soggy soil. A 2-inch layer of mulch helps keep the soil moist and weeds from growing. Bark, pine needles, compost, leaves and/or grass clippings are all good mulch choices.

Trim: Snip or trim flowers after they brown throughout the season. Although nothing bad will happen if you don’t, this “deadheading” neatens the plants and encourages more flower buds to form. The best time for bigger size-control cuts to rose bushes is toward the end of winter. Get the job done before buds on the stems start producing leaves, and don’t be afraid to cut back hard – even back to a foot tall – to keep your plants compact.

Feed: Roses are also “hungry” plants that benefit from a regular scattering of a granular fertilizer rich in natural and organic nutrients such as Natural Start All Purpose Plant Food. Fertilize from when the season’s first leaves appear until about 6 weeks before fall’s first frost typically occurs. Then knock off the feeding until the following year.

How to Keep Your Yard Healthy

Preventing problems in the landscape is much easier – and less expensive – than reacting to trouble after it happens. Treating for bugs, trying to control diseases, and replacing dead or struggling plants is a lot of work. Here are 8 tactics to head off that kind of unwelcome work in your yard-care regimen:

1. Good plants, right spot. Some plants are more likely to run into bug and disease trouble than others. Dwarf Alberta spruce (mites), euonymus (scale), dogwood (anthracnose), impatiens (downy mildew), and hybrid tea roses (a little bit of everything) are examples of common plants with common problems. It’s worth doing the homework to learn the key potential problems with plants in your area, and better yet, ones that seldom run into trouble. Local professionals know these well, so consult with resources such as Master Gardeners, garden-center staffers, Extension Service educators, and even experienced local gardeners. Online plant lists and regional plant books also are well worth the investment. Once you zero in on the best choices, get them in the proper place, i.e. sun-lovers in sun, damp-preferrers in wet spots and so on.

2. Improve the soil. Many gardeners are faced with planting in yards that were heavily graded before construction. That soil tends to be compacted and layered, which is terrible for drainage and root growth. Even native soil can often be too clayish, too rocky or too sandy. Most plants grow best in loose, well drained and reasonably nutritious soil, which may require some adjustment to bring to optimal levels. If you’re lucky enough to have decent soil, you can just dig and plant. But if you’re dealing with compacted or poor-quality soil, consider improving it before planting. A good strategy is to loosen the soil to at least 10-12 inches, and work in an inch or two of compost, rotted leaves, bagged planting mix from the garden center or similar organic matter. The result will be slightly raised planting beds.

Composting is not only a good way to recycle organic yard waste, but
the finished product adds nutrition, organic matter, and disease-
fighting properties to planting beds.

3. Make your own compost.First, composting is an excellent way to recycle leaves, grass clippings, kitchen peelings and other organic household waste. Second, the result is the best product for improving garden soil (see above) and for adding nutrition by topping it on existing beds or the lawn. Third, compost has natural disease-fighting properties, not to mention a multitude of microbes that benefit the living ecosystem that your soil should be.

4. Plant at the right depth.Too-deep planting is a leading cause of tree death. Sometimes plants end up too deep from settling in over-dug holes, but most of the time the plants are just set too deep at planting. Buried trunks are prone to rotting, and deeply set root systems suffer from lack of oxygen. Container-grown shrubs and perennials are easy to figure out since you can usually plant at the same depth that the rootball was growing in the pot. But for trees, it’s important to locate the “root flare” – the point at the base of the trunk where the wood widens out and the roots begin. That point needs to be placed slightly above grade. You might even need to remove some of the soil from around your tree’s base to find the flare. Planting too high is also bad if roots are exposed to drying air above ground. If that’s the case, you’ll need to deepen the hole or tamp a heaved-up rootball back down or cover the exposed roots with 2-3 inches of mulch (no more).

Some mulch is good for retaining soil moisture and choking weeds,but mulch packed up onto tree bark can rot the bark and potentially
kill the tree.

5. Water the ground, not the plants. The main problem with watering over top of plants is that most plant diseases thrive on damp leaves. You can also lessen the odds of plant disease by thinning out overly dense trees and shrubs and by dividing perennial beds that are too crowded. Densely packed canopies impede air flow that helps dry out leaves and head off moisture-fed disease. If you must water over top of plants, at least do it in early morning (the best time for leaves to dry) or early evening (so leaves aren’t wet going into the slow-drying overnight hours).

6. No excess mulch. Piling on the mulch has the same effect as planting too deeply. One to 2 inches is ideal around flowers, and 2 to 3 inches is enough around shrubs and trees. Don’t keep adding more mulch every year unless the old mulch is decaying to below those amounts. Eight inches of mulch will stop weeds nicely, but it’ll also stunt or kill your plants. Also, keep mulch a few inches back away from trunks and stems to discourage rotting.

7. Fertilize properly. More isn’t better. Research has found that over-fertilized plants are often more attractive to bugs, probably because there’s more nutrition available. The goal is to give plants soil that provides them with optimal nutrients. Soil lacking in key nutrients hurts plant health, but soil that’s excessive in one or more nutrients or out of whack altogether from over-fertilization isn’t helpful either. Poorly performing or poorly colored plants are clues that something could be amiss nutrition-wise. If you’ve never done it (or haven’t done it in awhile), invest in a do-it-yourself soil test. Those are available through most Extension services, land-grant universities and garden centers. Test results will tell you what to add and in what amounts. Otherwise, you’re just guessing.

8. Pay attention. It’s much easier to solve a pest or disease problem when you catch it early. That doesn’t mean spray the whole yard at the first sign of a bug crawling on a leaf, but it does mean monitoring your plants. Know what your plants normally look like (or should look like), and assess whether there’s a problem brewing if that changes. A lot of bug and disease problems are temporary and/or cosmetic that can be ignored or treated by something simple, such as a swift blast of hose water or picking off the leaves of an early disease threat. If what you see looks like more than just a temporary or cosmetic matter, research the most targeted and least disruptive way of dealing with that particular problem.

Ways Mowing Grass with Right Equipment

Choices range from the simple, reel push mowers to ultra-modern cordless, battery-operated equipment. Selecting the right mower ensures the most efficient tool for your specific landscape and that your lawn will look its best.

Here are some things to consider:

  • For southern lawns of St. Augustine or Bermuda grasses, many homeowners use a walk-behind, gasoline-powered reel mower, because of the nice, even cut. You push the mower, which resembles a reel push mower, except this one runs on gasoline.
  • Small yards can be mowed with a reel push mower, especially if the lawn and ground are relatively even or smooth. This human-powered mower has blades that cut as they rotate. This would not be a good choice for cutting tall grass or weedy areas. However, this is the most environmentally friendly lawnmower you can have.
  • For a fairly level yard less than one-half acre, a cordless, battery-operated lawn mower may be the answer. This is almost silent, emitting a slight, high-speed whirr, as it cuts the grass, making it ideal for smaller urban and suburban yards. The mower plugs into a special battery for recharging. Once charged, which usually takes several hours, the mower is unplugged. It stores its energy for the next mowing. Most battery-operated mowers are not recommended for cutting tall grass or weeds; however, there are a few models designed for those tasks.
  • The walk-behind, gas-powered, rotary lawnmower is what most people use to cut the grass. This push mower can be used to mow the lawn and all but the tallest weeds. This is a good choice for most northern lawns of blue grass and fescue. It gives a nice, even cut.
  • Gasoline-powered riding mowers or small tractors may be the right choice for very large landscapes. Again, make sure you can maneuver the equipment safely.
  • For larger landscapes, those that are hilly or have steep slopes, a good choice is a self-propelled mower. This gasoline-powered mower moves when you put it in gear, so you need to be able to handle its pull and weight in a safe manner.
  • Buy a mulching mower, which comes in almost all styles. This machine cuts the grass into tiny pieces, which remain on the lawn and eliminate the need to bag clippings.

Other mowing tips for a great looking lawn:

  • Make sure you can easily adjust the mowing height of the equipment.
  • Keep the lawnmower in good running condition and the blade sharp. A sharp blade cuts the grass evenly, without tearing the blades, which can cause brown tips. Ragged cuts also open up grass blades to insect and disease damage.
  • Mow high, keeping the grass about 3 inches tall. Taller grass reduces the chance weeds will take hold and it shades the soil, helping to retain moisture and moderating its temperature. That usually means you’ll mow more frequently in spring, when the grass is growing fast, and less in summer and fall, when the growth rate has slowed.
  • Avoid cutting off more than one-third of the height of the grass blades at a time.
  • To reduce stress on the lawn, mow in early evening or early- to mid-morning.
  • Don’t mow the grass when it is wet.
  • Don’t bag the clippings. A mulching mower chops the grass into tiny bits, which stay on the lawn. The bits quickly break down, adding nutrients to the soil as they do.